Puppies grow up too soon, as anyone who has ever loved one can tell you. When your pup is grown you've lost not only some of the cuteness, but also a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to get him off to a good start in life.
It's always easier to prevent problems than to try to fix them later, and one of the most important ways to do this is by socializing your puppy.
Introduce a puppy to all the new things you can -- people, places and other animals. When a puppy isn't exposed to new things, social development stops or even regresses. The goal of socializing is a confident, outgoing dog who isn't shy or aggressive. A good pet, in other words.
"But wait!" you say. "What about disease? My vet told me to keep my puppy at home until his last puppy shot. And you're saying I should go out? Is that safe?"
Well, your veterinarian is right. Your puppy is at risk for contracting diseases from other dogs before his full immunity is in place. This is why you shouldn't go anywhere where dogs you do not know hang out -- parks, dog events or pet stores -- until your veterinarian gives the go-ahead. But that doesn't mean you should leave your puppy at home.
Use common sense. Plan safe outings. And take a puppy class, because the trainers know the risks and work to minimize them by keeping the training area sanitized. And when that last puppy shot is in, at 14 to 16 weeks, pull out all the stops when it comes to socialization.
Why take any chances at all? Because doing so is important. An unsocialized dog, whether fearful or aggressive, is at a high risk for ending up in a shelter, with little chance at being adopted again. Some experts argue that, in the long run, behavior problems kill more dogs than parvovirus does, which puts the importance of proper and safe socialization in perspective.
Dogs are genetically predisposed to have more potential to become part of human society than wolves or coyotes, but it's not always easy for them. When you give your pup an understanding that living with humans means new adventures are not to be feared, you are sharing a wonderful gift.
So socialize, and remember that the world is full of scary things, especially to a little puppy. At times, even the boldest of puppies is paralyzed with uncertainty when faced with something he's never seen before. Your response to his fear is very important.
Don't soothe your pup. Petting him and saying, "It's OK, baby" (or something similar) gives your puppy the idea that being scared is OK and that you're rewarding him for the behavior. Instead, be matter-of-fact and encouraging.
Let him work it out, and when he takes that step forward, praise him for his courage. Then move on, one more step into your life together.
SIDEBAR
A guide for puppy-raising
When my puppy, McKenzie, arrived at the end of April, I knew she was a bright, adorable 8-week-old retriever with tons of potential to be a wonderful companion and dog-sports competitor. And I knew that to achieve that potential, I had work to do. My goal: to introduce her to dozens of new experiences -- sights, sounds, smells -- before the optimum socialization window closed at 16 weeks.
McKenzie had a head start, since she came from a top breeder who worked with my pup and her siblings constantly, exposing them gently to different shapes, textures, temperatures and more. And I got further assistance from The Ultimate Puppy Tool Kit, a boxed collection of materials to help with puppy socialization and training. (The Tool Kit is $20 from pet-supply outlets or direct from Premier Pet Products at ultimatepuppy.com.)
The kit includes six well-written training modules with helpful photo illustrations, as well as handy pocket guides to take with you when you and your puppy venture out. What I found most helpful was a poster that described canine development stages and what I should be doing with my puppy during each. It wasn't new information to me, but being able to see it all in one place -- I put the poster on my refrigerator door -- helped me to keep McKenzie on track.
McKenzie is now approaching 6 months, a happy, outgoing puppy who knows not only basic obedience but also a few cute tricks. She's well on her way to a well-mannered adulthood and perhaps a brilliant dog-sports career.
Q&A
Rabbits get forgotten, too
Q: I read your article on people who give up on Christmas puppies later on. Could you please write something about Easter pets, especially rabbits? I am a rabbit lover. I own a pet rabbit who is part of the family, who lives in the house with my cat and is never caged.
I see so many people who have rabbits and just put them in a small cage outside. It kills me because rabbits can't tolerate the heat, and they need exercise and love. And then there are people keep them in a cage with nothing to stand on but wire. I will do anything I can to stop this cruelty, and I would appreciate your help. -- D.H., e-mail
A: Thank you for helping me to spread the word about the proper care of rabbits. These animals are hugely underappreciated as playful, affectionate and quiet house pets that can be trained to use a litter box and have supervised play time out of their cages.
Last year I visited the world's only shelter dedicated solely to the placement of unwanted rabbits, at the headquarters of the House Rabbit Society in Richmond, Calif. Even for someone who has been writing about animals as long as I have, it was an eye opener to see how friendly and relaxed indoor bunnies could be.
Not long after that, on an assignment at my local SPCA, I fell in love with a rabbit who'd been brought in near death and nursed back to health by the humane officer who'd taken a fancy to the sweet-natured bunny. Turbo joined my family almost a year ago; now, I'm looking for a suitable companion for him.
The best source for information on the care of house rabbits -- and on why rabbits deserve a better life than they can get in a small outdoor hutch -- can be found on the Web site of the House Rabbit Society (www.rabbit.org).
Weight-loss concern
Q: I have a 13-year-old spayed female cat who went from 18 pounds in May of last year to 10 pounds last month. We've continued to feed her the same food in the same amounts. The only change is that we live in a two-story condo now instead of a one-story apartment.
Should we be concerned with the drastic weight loss? We've tried to reduce her weight many times with no luck, so this is bit of a shock. -- W.G., e-mail
A: I think you have reason to be concerned about weight loss as dramatic as hers. Since you've said there was no change in the amount of food she eats, I can't imagine she's running up and down those stairs enough to burn off the weight.
Your cat needs to see a veterinarian for a thorough evaluation of her health. My concern would be a problem such a hyperthyroidism, a common illness in older cats where the thyroid gland overproduces this essential hormone. Typically, hyperthyroid cats lose weight and seem to be much more energetic, but the disease has a serious downside, too, and needs to be treated.
The good news is that if it is hyperthyroidism, it can be treated successfully in a couple of different ways. Radiation treatment is considered the best treatment option for a positive outcome, but many owners successfully maintain their cats on daily medication for life. Ask your veterinarian to outline all treatment options so you can decide what's right for your cat.
(Do you have a pet question? Send it to petconnection@gmail.com.)
PET RX
Getting vitals can help your cat
Everyone with a cat should know how to take the animal's vital signs. Here's how to perform these important procedures:
-- Temperature: Put a little lubricant on a pet thermometer and gently insert it between 1 and 2 inches into your cat's rectum. The temperature should be between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees, and the thermometer should be almost clean after it's removed. Call your veterinarian if your cat's temperature is below 99 degrees or above 103 degrees, or if you see evidence of mucous, blood, diarrhea, or a black, tarry stool on the thermometer.
-- Heart rate: Feel the your cat's heartbeat with one hand over his left side, behind the front leg. Count the number of beats in 15 seconds and multiply by four to get the heart rate. A normal cat is between 140 and 220 beats per minute, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Call your veterinarian if your cat's heart rate is too rapid, too slow or irregular.
-- Respiratory rate: Stand back a bit and watch your cat breathe when he is relaxed and standing. Watch the abdomen and chest wall move. Often it is easier to count the respiratory rate when you watch the abdomen move. Count the number of movements in 60 seconds to get the respiratory rate. A normal cat is between 15 and 25 breaths per minute, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Call your veterinarian if your cat's respiratory rate is too rapid.
(Pet Rx is provided by the Veterinary Information Network (VIN.com), an online service for veterinary professionals. More information can be found at www.veterinarypartner.com.)
ON THE WEB
Dogpatch inspires canine competitors
Exercise and training are an important part of a high-quality life for your dog, and the two pair nicely in the world of dog sports. No matter the size or breed of your dog, you can find a sport you both will enjoy. Your dog will be happier and healthier, and the bond between you stronger for the time you spend together as a team.
A good place to start researching dog sports is the Dogpatch (www.dogpatch.org). The Web site has information on many kinds of canine competitions, plus links to some of the best Web pages for training information. Are you and your dog couch potatoes? This site may inspire a change!
PET TIP
Get your bird off the junk-food diet
Reputable bird breeders and bird shops sell healthy pets already eating a healthy diet. But some people have birds who are junk-food junkies, or they fall in love with a secondhand bird whose diet needs revising.
With patience, even the most stubborn seed-freak can learn to eat a healthy mix of pellets and fresh "people food," including fruits and vegetables. Here's how:
-- Confirm good health. Before messing with your pet's diet, make sure he's in good health by having your veterinarian go over him thoroughly. Birds are adept at hiding illness, and the stress of a diet change may be too much for a bird who's sick.
-- Combine the old and the new. Mix what your bird has been eating with a high-quality pelleted diet and fresh foods. Feed your bird this mixture out of a single food bowl, too, and never offer enough seeds to fill him up.
-- Gradually reduce seeds. Start with a 50/50 blend of seeds and pellets for two to four weeks, reducing the percentage of seeds slowly over time. Vary the amounts of pellets, fruit, veggies and seeds you offer each day. Be inconsistent in what your bird can expect to see in that food bowl the next day -- it'll keep your bird busy checking for the jackpot of food he likes.
-- Feed new foods in the morning. Birds are the most hungry when they first wake up, so offer pellets and fresh foods exclusively at the start of the day before adding seed to the mix later in the day.
-- Demonstrate good eating habits. Eat healthy foods in front of your bird, and offer him some of what you're having. He'll try most anything you're eating.
Birds can and do starve themselves to death, so make sure you observe your bird eating, check to see that he is passing normal waste matter, and feel the muscle on both sides of his keel bone (which runs right down the middle of his chest) periodically to be sure he's maintaining weight. Talk to your avian veterinarian if you have questions or concerns.
THE SCOOP
Some good pets get overlooked
When it comes to placing pets, shelter workers and rescue volunteers know some animals have two strikes against them from the start. The road to a new home can be a difficult one indeed for big black dogs and big white bunnies.
Large dogs are always harder to place than small ones. Couple the problems of size with the perception of dark-colored dogs as potentially menacing and you have some perfectly wonderful animals who never get a second look in a shelter.
Rabbit rescuers say large white bunnies are likewise overlooked. Seems many people don't consider "ordinary" white rabbits to be as attractive as bunnies with more interesting markings or lop ears.
In both cases, adopters who automatically rule out these animals when looking for a new pet are missing out on the chance to pick up a great companion -- and strike a blow for fairness, besides.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to petconnection@gmail.com. You can also read her frequently updated Web log or view her column archives at www.spadafori.com.
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