These days, it seems as if many of us have a roll of duct tape floating around as part of some vague disaster plan. If that's true of you, here's something specific to do with it: Include it in a preparedness kit for your pets.
That's not all you need to do, but the rest of it isn't much harder. And it's important, because if you don't look out for your four-legged family members, who will?
Start your preparations with something you've probably already taken care of: Make sure your pets have ID.
Most animals will survive a disaster, but many never see their families again because there's no way to determine which pet belongs to which family if the animals go missing, a common occurrence even under normal circumstances. That's why dogs and cats should always wear a collar and identification tags.
Once your pet has up-to-date ID, it's time to collect some equipment to help you cope in case of an emergency. A big storage bin with a lid and handles is an ideal place to keep everything you need together and at hand.
Keep several days' worth of drinking water and pet food as well as any necessary medicines, rotating the stock regularly. For canned goods, don't forget to pack a can opener and a spoon. Lay in a supply of empty plastic bags, along with paper towels, both for cleaning up messes and for sealing them away until they can be safely tossed.
For cats, pack a bag of litter and some disposable litter trays.
Even normally docile pets can behave in uncharacteristic ways when stressed by an emergency, which makes restraints essential for the safety of pets and people alike. For dogs, as well as those cats who are used to them, leashes should always be at hand.
Shipping crates are probably the least-thought-of pieces of emergency equipment for pets, but are among the most important. Sturdy crates keep pets of all kinds safe while increasing housing options. Crated pets may be allowed in hotel rooms that are normally off-limits to pets, or can be left in a pinch with veterinarians or shelters that are already full, since the animals come with rooms of their own.
Final item of restraint for dogs and cats: a soft muzzle, because frightened or injured pets are more likely to bite.
Don't forget to put first-aid supplies in your disaster kit, along with a book on how to treat pet injuries.
Now, about that duct tape.
It's a good idea to have some lost pet flyers prepared in advance and put in with your emergency supplies along with a large black marker and -- yes! -– duct tape for posting them. Preprint the fliers with the word "reward" in large type, with a picture and description of your pet below, and leave a blank space to add a phone number or other details.
And since the job's not over until the paperwork's done, you should also tuck a photocopy of your pet's current vaccination records into the disaster kit, along with a list of locations and phone numbers for animal shelters and veterinary hospitals or clinics (should your pet become lost, these are the places where he'll be most likely to be turned in). Veterinarians and shelters are also essential in the coordinating of post-disaster animal relief efforts.
Chances are you'll never have to pull out your disaster kit, but as we're hearing more often these days, it's always good to be prepared.
THE SCOOP
Spring is just around the corner, and that means wild birds will be building their nests. You can help them out by combing and brushing your dog or cat thoroughly, and then setting the fur you've collected on top of bushes or other places where the birds can find it. The fur makes good nesting material, especially if it's the wooly undercoat of breeds such as Samoyeds or collies, or the silky strands of Persians. And remember: Whatever fur you catch on a comb or brush won't end up on your clothes. There's just no downside to a good grooming, for your pet, your home or for the birds.
PETS ON THE WEB
I have it on the word of my friend Sally, whose dog Muffin, a Maltese, has a bigger wardrobe than many people, that the doggy tiaras offered on the Trixie & Peanut pet gifts Web site (www.trixieandpeanut.com/) are a "must have." Yes, I agree they're darn cute for some dogs, but I can't really see the alpha girl of my household, the retriever Heather, wearing one. She's just too much of a tomboy for that. Still, I found lots to like -- or at least to smile at -- on this well-designed site, which offers clever non-necessities for dogs and cats, as well as for the people who love them. One of my favorites: catnip-filled cat toys in the shape of popular dog breeds. Kitty-revenge can be sweet -- but, at $28 each, darn expensive!
QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK
Q: I'm in the Navy, and I've had to board my cats for six months. I would like to know what's the best way to get to know my cats again, and how do I bring them into my home again? -- L.W., via e-mail
A: Your cats shouldn't be that hard to reintroduce, if you promise yourself to be patient from the get-go. It's better to start with them in a single small room outfitted with all they need -- food, water, scratching post, litter boxes, toys -- and let them become comfortable there before expanding the available territory.
Start small when it comes to interactions, too. Let your cats choose the amount of petting, even if it's far less than you were used to with them before. If they want to spend the first few days under the bed, let them. Hauling your cats out and forcing them to accept petting is always a big mistake.
When your cats want to be petted, go for the low-trigger areas, such as behind the ears and under the chin, as well as a gentle stroke down the back and up the tail. Watch for the "I think I've almost had enough" signs such as tail-flipping and always end the session on a positive note before the cat insists on leaving.
Gradually increase their territory and your interaction with them. I've no doubt that if you let your cats set the pace, it won't be long before your pets feel comfortable and things are pretty much as they were before.
Q: I love animals, but our beautiful neighborhood is rapidly going to the dogs -- literally. One dog barks incessantly, which sets the other dogs to barking back. Catnaps for us neighbors have become a thing of the past, and these dogs surely cannot be happy. Should I call the SPCA? Don't tell me to talk with their owners; they must know how much noise their dogs are making. Can anything else be done? -- J.H., via e-mail
A: Humane societies investigate animal cruelty, but they are not set up to deal with animal nuisances, unless neglect or cruelty is involved. Barking dogs are low on the priority list for municipal agencies as well, which realistically leaves you with two choices: Deal with the neighbor whose dog triggers the others, or live with the problem.
You might be surprised at how oblivious the neighbor with the problem dog is to the noise the animal makes. Over the years I have come to believe that many owners of barking dogs develop the ability to tune them out, and so may not be fully aware of the trouble their pets are causing. I'm not offering this as an excuse, believe me, because someone whose dog is a nonstop barker in the way you describe is likely not a caring, responsible pet lover. These dogs are bored and lonely, at the very least, and often neglected as well.
While it's better to talk one-on-one with the owners of the problem dog, I realize that's not always possible, especially if that person has proven to be dangerous or scary to deal with in the past. You might instead consider sending an anonymous letter that indicates how much unhappiness the animal is causing the neighbors, and include a flier with suggestions for improving the situation, through better care of the dog, integration of the animal into the family home and management of the situations that trigger the barking.
The Denver Dumb Friends League has an excellent fact sheet covering why dogs bark and how pet owners can to choose effective solutions. You can find it at www.ddfl.org/behavior/barkingdog.htm. Print it out and provide your neighbor with the information.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.
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