The first step in turning an adult dog into a reliable house pet is to embrace a key concept: There's no such thing as a "partially" house-trained dog. He either is, or he isn't.
Why is realizing this important? Because if you have a dog who is "sometimes" reliable, you have a dog who doesn't understand what's required of him, probably because no one taught him properly in the first place. Punishing your pet isn't fair, and it isn't the answer: You have to go back to square one and teach him properly. No shortcuts here.
Before you start training, though, you must be sure that what you have really is a behavior problem and not a physical problem. This is especially true with a dog who has been reliable in the past. You won't be able to train your pet if he's struggling with an illness. So check with your veterinarian first.
If you've ruled out medical problems, house-training an adult dog uses the same principals as house-training a puppy, except you have to be even more diligent because you need to do some untraining, too. And a lot of cleaning: You must thoroughly clean any soiled area with enzymatic cleaner (available through pet-supply outlets) to eliminate the smell that invites repeat business.
You'll need to teach your dog what's right before you can correct him for what's wrong. To do this, spend a couple of weeks ensuring that he has nothing but successes by never giving him the opportunity to make a mistake. Here's how:
-- Leash him to you in the house so you can monitor his every move during his training period. If he starts to mess, tell him "no," take him outside, give him a command for going -- I use "hurry up" with my dogs -- and praise him for doing right so he starts to understand what you want.
-- Put him in a crate whenever he's not on leash with you. It's not unfair during training to leave him in a crate for four or five hours at a stretch -- assuming, of course, that he's getting his regular daily exercise.
-- Take him outside first thing in the morning, as soon as you get home from work and just before you go to bed (when you put him in his crate for the night). Always remember to give your "go" command, and praise him when he does as you wish. I find that people never seem shy about punishing their dogs, but too often forget to praise them -- they take it for granted the dog should do the right thing. Never, ever forget the praise!
If you've been consistent, your dog likely will get a good idea of what's expected of him within a couple of weeks, and you can start to give him a little freedom. Don't let him have the run of the house yet. Keep his area small and let him earn the house, room by room, as he proves his understanding of the house rules.
Accidents happen. If you catch him in the act, tell him "no," take him outside, and give him the chance to set things right. Give your "go" command, and praise him if he does. Clean up the mess inside promptly and thoroughly, so he won't feel inclined to refresh his smell there. Don't punish him for any messes you find. If you aren't catching him, you're not keeping close enough tabs on him. Go back to the crate and leash, and start over.
If you continue to have problems, ask your veterinarian for a referral to a trainer or behaviorist. One-on-one assistance can pinpoint the problems in your training regimen and get you both on the right track.
THE SCOOP
When it comes to caring for pets, few beliefs are as widely spread and strongly held as the one that incorrectly suggests pets be tranquilized for an airline flight. I'm guessing it's because most of us would prefer spending our time in the air asleep, and figure that pets are the same. Flying is stressful, and it stands to reason that tranquilizers take the edge off a scary experience.
Wrong. Tranquilizing can increase the risk of flying for your pet. That's because the medication impairs the efficient functioning of a body, at a time when such efficiency can be essential to keeping your pet alive. That's why tranquilizing is not recommended for most flight-bound pets. Yours may be the exception, however, which is why you need to discuss the issue with your veterinarian beforehand.
PETS ON THE WEB
Most people don't consider a horse to fit into the category of "pet." The exception might be the miniature horse, some of which aren't that much bigger than a large dog. The American Miniature Horse Association Web site (www.amha.com) offers information on these distinctive horses, who aren't just for standing around looking cute. Originally developed to work in mines and other tight confines, miniature horses can be used to pull carts and serve as backpacking companions. The Web site has information on these activities, and more, along with plenty of pictures of these cute little hay-burners.
QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK
Q: I have an 11-week-old chocolate Labrador who does not like the water. I selected this breed because I wanted a dog who would enjoy a lake or pool. I take her into the pool almost daily, but she seems to be afraid. Any ideas? -- B.R. via e-mail
A: Careless breeding has diminished or removed the traditional traits of many popular breeds, including the desire in some Labradors to swim or retrieve.
If you'd asked me for advice before getting your pup, I would have recommended one of two things if you wanted a dog who'd swim: (1) Either look for an adult dog proven to possess such a trait (a rescue group would have been an ideal place to look); or (2) if you had to have a purebred Lab puppy, that you find a breeder offering pups from proven field and hunting lines. Either strategy would have maximized your chances at getting a dog who was gung-ho for water.
All is not lost, however. Your pup is still young and she may yet learn to enjoy swimming. First step: Quit scaring her! By forcing her into the water and making her swim, you may be making matters worse.
My best advice is to find someone (friend, neighbor, relative) who has a friendly dog who loves to swim and fetch. Take your pup out with that dog, and let the older animal swim and retrieve from the water. All the excitement and positive association may well encourage your pup to give swimming another try.
I'd also play retrieving games with your pup, making them as fun as possible for her. Once she's crazy for retrieving, you can try some water retrieves. Throw to the edge of the water, then in the shallows, etc. Go slowly, and always be positive.
If your dog never comes to love swimming, though, maybe you ought to count your blessings. I live with two water-mad retrievers who are a real challenge to keep out of the water.
The smell of wet dog is a constant, along with a mud-coated minivan and lots of filthy dog towels. Sometimes I find myself nostalgic for the days when I couldn't get my Shelties to go within 10 feet of water, except to take a drink.
Q: I saw an ad for a videotape about birds for cats who like to watch television. One of my cats loves to watch other cats on television. But I've never seen him show any interest in birds on the screen. However, he does like to sit by the window and watch birds outside. I was thinking of buying him this video, but will watching TV will make cats fat, as it does to people? -- K.S., via e-mail
A: TV cannot be really be held responsible for putting weight on people or pets. What does the deed is substituting time in front of the set for time spent involved in physically active pursuits, along with the propensity of TV watchers to snack while they watch.
I doubt the tape will put weight on your cat. He's not going to help himself to a bowl of munchies while the TV is on, and watching a videotape of birds might be a more active experience than catnapping, which is likely how he spends the day now.
I can't tell you if your cat will be interested, though. I have heard from some readers whose cats like these tapes very much. Other cats probably could not care less about birds they can see and hear but not smell or catch.
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies," "Cats for Dummies" and "Birds for Dummies." She is also affiliated with the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or send e-mail to writetogina(at)spadafori.com.
4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600