If you want to thank someone for the pleasure of your indoor cat, thank the late Edward Lowe, the creator of Kitty Litter. In one of those fabled American success stories, Lowe was looking for new uses for clay some 50 years ago when he happened upon the one that would make him rich and cat lovers happy -- albeit not at the very moment they're attending to that litter.
Filling cat boxes is an industry worth more than $600 million today, with more variety than Lowe could have ever imagined when he hand-labeled that first 5-pound bag. But what about something to put the litter in? In recent years some of the most interesting innovations have come in the cat-box area. Here are most of your options:
-- Disposable pans. Small, cardboard litter boxes are popular with shelters, rescuers, pet stores and some breeders, but probably aren't too practical for long-term use for your pet cat. Still, you may consider keeping a few of these on hand in case a stray walks into your life, or for young kittens or cats who need nursing back to health.
-- Household items. A 9-by-13-inch metal baking dish, too worn for cooking, can be a good first litter box for a kitten, its low sides making it easy for babies to hop in and out of. Plastic dishpans, with their high sides, can be a good choice for cats who like to kick their litter everywhere; you can cut down one side if necessary for easier access.
-- Simple plastic pans. Millions of cats have done just fine with this design, and yours may be among them. Relatively inexpensive and widely available, these pans come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Some have special rims to keep more filler in the box. Make sure that the one you choose is easy to scrub clean.
-- Covered pans. Manufacturers say covered pans keep down odors and prevent dogs and children from getting into the filler. Unfortunately, some owners take the approach that if they can't smell the litter box, it doesn't need attention, and the cat who feels otherwise finds someplace else to go. If you choose this kind of pan, don't forget that you must be as on top of its cleaning as you would with any other variety. Don't blame your cat for mistakes if you can't keep the litter box clean regularly. One caution: Cats with asthma should not use a covered litter pan. They need the increased ventilation that an open-air variety offers.
-- Self-cleaning pans. No one likes to clean the litter box, but some cats are so fussy that if you let this important chore wait, your cat may turn up her nose and go elsewhere. In recent years, inventors have come up with new pans that make cleaning a nearly hands-off affair, thanks to the easy-clean properties of clumping cat-box filler.
Some of these boxes have lift-and-sift inserts that collect used clumps as you remove them, while you roll the others over, thereby running litter through a collector that catches and holds the clumps.
The absolute high end of the easy-clean line would have to be the electric litter box, as anyone who watches late-night infomercials can attest. One veterinarian friend of mine gleefully snapped up the product at a trade show and was disappointed to report his cats found it too spooky to use. Other cats may feel differently, though, and yours may be among them.
His experience points out the most important thing to remember when choosing -- and filling -- a litter box. The only opinion that really counts is your cat's. When you hit the magic solution that makes you both happy, stick with it.
PETS ON THE WEB
Forget cat boxes, forget litter, forget cleaning, forget smell. Your cat can learn to use the toilet. While books and articles on teaching this useful trick have been around for years, the How to Toilet Train Your Cat Web site (www.rainfrog.com/mishacat/toilet.shtml) does as good a job as I've seen in explaining how it's done. The author goes over the steps, setbacks and challenges, all with lots of photos of the author's cat, Misha, doing more or less what comes naturally on the commode. Remember: Lid up, seat down.
PET TIP
Is your dog wearing one of those slip-chain training collars, commonly known as a choke collar, for everyday wear? If so, take it off right now and give your pet a hug of thanks that he's still with you. The moving ring of a choke collar can catch on many things, even the teeth of another dog in play. Once snagged, a dog reacts instinctively -- and completely wrong -- by pulling away. The noose only gets tighter and more deadly the more he pulls. Many dogs have died in such circumstances, and some owners have been bitten trying to free a frantic pet.
For safety, a buckled or snap-together collar (leather or nylon) should be your dog's everyday wear. The fit should be a tad looser than snug. You should be able to work one finger under the collar for a small dog, two for a large one. And don't forget to attach current ID tags and a license.
Restrict the use of the slip-chain collar to training or walking. Get in the habit of taking the slip-chain off when you unleash your dog and leaving it attached to your leash, so you'll always have it handy.
QUESTIONS FROM THE PACK
Q: I have a 2-year-old Chinook mix we got from the pound. She's a great dog at home. At the park or the vet, though, it's another story. At the park, she will bark like a maniac when other dogs pass by or come near.
We are training her at the park now, praising her and stuffing her with treats when she can sit/stay with a minimum of barking as dogs pass about 10 feet away. But there are still times when she'll lose it and start barking like a crazed animal. I am wondering if a muzzle might help her train by preventing her from barking and getting herself even more worked up. -- G.M, via the Internet
A: Instead of a muzzle, try a head halter. Canine halters work on the same principle that equine versions do: Control the head and the body will follow. The leash is attached to a ring under the jaw, and when pulled, puts pressure around the dog's muzzle and neck -- both important in canine body language. Properly fitted and used, head halters can shift the balance of power in your favor.
I would also suggest a couple of private sessions with a good trainer. An experienced trainer can spot what you're doing wrong, turn your dog around quickly, and show you how to handle your pet's daily challenges.
Q: My brother wants to let his iguana go when we get to Florida. Is that OK? Will the iguana be able to live? -- N.T., via the Internet
A: Aside from the cruel proposition of turning loose a domesticated animal to fend for itself, your brother's plan is a bad one for the sake of the environment. The release or escape of non-native plants and animals causes a great deal of problems in places where they can do well enough to displace native species. Keep your pet contained and well-cared-for, for its own good and for the good of the nondomesticated animals it may come in contact with in the wild.
Q: Do you have any recipes for dog treats?
A: Try these liver brownies. Or, rather, prepare them and give them to your pet!
LIVER BROWNIES
-- 1 pound of liver, pureed in blender or food processor;
-- 1 cup corn meal;
-- garlic powder to taste (your dog's, not yours);
-- a little water to get the consistency of chewy brownie batter.
Mix and spread in brownie pan. Bake about 25 minutes at 325-350 degrees. Stick a knife in center to see if they are done. Cool and cut. They can be frozen for later use.
Looking for more? Try Kim Campbell Thornton's book, "Dog Treats" (Doubleday, $7.95).
Gina Spadafori is the award-winning author of "Dogs for Dummies" and "Cats for Dummies," and is the editorial director of the Veterinary Information Network Inc., an international online service for veterinary professionals. Write to her in care of this newspaper, or e-mail to Write2Gina(at)aol.com.
4520 Main St., Kansas City, Mo. 64111; (816) 932-6600